What To Look For When Buying A Hockey Stick

Whether you’re grabbing your first twig or upgrading your hockey equipment after years of rink time, the right hockey stick can instantly change how you shoot, pass, dangle, and defend. This guide breaks down every decision—length, flex, kick point, curve, lie, materials, blade feel, shaft shape, and more—so you can choose with confidence.

 

TL;DR Cheat Sheet (Fast Picks)

• Length: With skates on: between chin and nose for most players. Defense may go a touch longer; danglers a touch shorter. Without skates: roughly mouth height.

• Flex: A common starting point is about half your body weight (lbs) (e.g., 170 lb → ~85 flex), then adjust: lower flex for quick release/younger players, higher for heavy shooters/stronger players. Cutting the stick short makes it feel stiffer.

• Kick Point:

  • Low kick = fastest release, great for wristers/snapshots and close-range shots.

  • Mid kick = powerful, stable for slapshots and one-timers.

  • Hybrid/variable = balanced feel and versatility.

• Curve: Start with a mid curve, open face if you love lifting pucks; closed face for flatter passes/shots. Toe curves help quick release; heel curves help sweeping passes.

• Lie: Most adults land around lie 5–6. If heel lifts off the ice, go lower; if toe lifts, go higher.

• Blade feel: Softer core for puck feel/receiving; stiffer blade for shooting accuracy/release.

• Budget: You can get 90% of the performance in mid-tier sticks. Prioritize fit (length/flex/curve) before chasing “pro” price tags.

Anatomy of a Modern Hockey Stick

Shaft → transfers your hands’ force into the puck. Shape, wall thickness, materials, and kick design matter.

Hosel → the transition where shaft meets blade; affects feel, lie, and torsional stability.

Blade → core, foams, carbon layup, and face angle dictate puck feel, shot trajectory, and durability.

Grip/Finish → helps control. Options include tacky grip coatings, matte, clear (no grip), and textured ribs.

Construction Types:

• One-Piece (OPS): Seamless shaft–blade build for consistent flex and lighter weight. Most popular at competitive levels.

• Two-Piece (Shaft + Replaceable Blade): Slightly heavier, but cheaper to replace a broken blade, and flexible for experimenting with curves/lies.

Sizing: Length & How to Measure

• With skates on: Stand tall. The stick should land between chin and nose for most skaters.

• Without skates: A good approximation is around mouth height.

• Position tweaks:

  • Defense: Often like longer sticks (reach, poke checks, shot lanes).

  • Forwards/danglers: Often prefer slightly shorter for puck control and quick release.

• Youth/Junior/Intermediate/Senior sizing:

  • Youth: 3’0”–4’4” (91–132 cm) tall; short shafts, soft flex.

  • Junior: 4’4”–5’1” (132–155 cm); moderate shaft length, light flex.

  • Intermediate: 5’1”–5’6” (155–168 cm); medium length, mid flex.

  • Senior: 5’6”+ (168 cm+); full-length shafts with higher flex.

Cutting changes things: Shortening a stick makes it feel stiffer. A common rule of thumb: about +10 flex for every ~2 inches cut. Longer sticks feel softer. Always consider where you’ll cut when picking flex.

Flex: Power vs. Quickness

What is flex? It’s how much the shaft bends under load. Flex ratings (e.g., 65, 75, 85, 95, 102) are comparative stiffness numbers.

Picking a starting flex:

• Rule of thumb: Flex ≈ 0.5 × body weight (lb). 150 lb → ~75 flex. 200 lb → ~100 flex.

• Adjust for strength (stronger → stiffer) and style:

  • Quick-release shooters (wristers/snaps) → a bit softer.

  • Heavy slappers/blue-line bombs → a bit stiffer.

  • Younger/learning → softer to load easily.

Flex feel factors:

• Length: Shorter stick = feels stiffer; longer = feels softer.

• Kick point: Low kick often feels easier to load for quick snaps; mid kick can resist torque until you really lean.

• Shaft geometry & wall thickness: Thicker or more square shafts often feel stiffer; thin-walled/light builds feel more whippy.

Kick Point: Where the Stick Bends Most

• Low Kick: Bend concentrates near the blade. Fast release, great for in-tight shooting, dekes to shot, and quick catch-and-release. Popular with goal scorers who shoot in stride.

• Mid Kick: Bend higher in the shaft. Stable under big loads, ideal for slapshots, point shots, and heavy one-timers. Favored by defense and shooters who “lean” hard.

• Hybrid/Variable Kick: Engineered to flex where you load it. Versatile for mixed shooting styles and varying hand positions.

Who should choose what?

• Netfront/slot wingers, quick snipers → Low kick.

• Blue-line bombers, heavy one-timers → Mid kick.

• All-around two-way players → Hybrid.

Curves & Faces: How the Blade Shapes Your Game

A blade’s curve pattern has five main traits: curve location, depth, toe shape, face angle, and length.

Curve location

• Toe curve: Most of the bend near the toe. Great for quick puck pickup and fast release under the bottom hand.

• Mid curve: Balanced sweet spot; easiest all-around choice.

• Heel curve: Bend closer to the heel; excels at sweeping passes and longer wind-ups.

Depth (how much it curves):

• Shallow: Flatter shots and controlled, flat passes; less help lifting the puck.

• Deep: Easier to elevate, great for backhands/quick scoops—can sail shots if you’re not used to it.

Face angle (closed ↔ open):

• Closed face: Keeps shots down; crisp passing.

• Open face: Helps elevate and pick corners high; can raise puck unintentionally if you push too hard.

Toe shape (round ↔ square):

• Round toe: Nimble around the puck; smooth stickhandling.

• Square toe: Slightly more surface for board battles and squaring to the puck.

Popular archetypes (brand names vary):

• Mid/open, moderate depth (often “92-style”) → Safe, versatile, easy to elevate.

• Toe/open with aggressive hook (often “28-style”) → Lightning quick release; great top-shelf shooter’s pattern.

• Heel/mid, neutral face (often “88/19-style”) → Flatter flight, saucer control, point shots.

How to choose: If you’re unsure, start mid/open and moderate depth. Move to toe/open for faster release and more loft, or to heel/closed for flatter lasers and controlled passing.

Lie: Keeping the Blade Flush

Lie measures the angle between the blade and the shaft and affects how the blade sits on the ice.

• If your heel lifts off the ice during your natural stance → your lie is likely too high; go lower.

• If your toe lifts → your lie is likely too low; go higher.

• Cutting a stick shorter doesn’t change the blade’s designed lie, but it makes you hold the shaft lower, which feels like a higher lie (more upright).

• Most adult players settle between lie 5 and 6; smaller/taller or very upright/very crouched stances may prefer outside that range.

Tip: Evaluate lie in skating stance, hands where you actually play, not standing straight.

 

Blade Construction & Feel

Core & foams: Softer foams absorb vibration and give great puck feel on reception; denser cores feel livelier on shots.

Torsional stiffness: A stiffer blade face resists twisting, improving accuracy and release speed. Too stiff can feel pingy on bad ice.

Face finish & texture: Matte, glossy, or textured faces influence how the puck grips during shots and how tape adheres. Most players customize with tape + wax to dial feel and water resistance.

Durability vs feel: Lightweight blades may chip sooner on rough ice/boards. If you play a heavy board game or outdoors/roller, prioritize tougher construction (or ABS).

Shaft Geometry, Finish & Balance

Shape:

• Square corners / straight walls: Traditional, firm in the hands, precise alignment.

• Rounded corners / concave walls: More ergonomic, easier rotation for quick shots and puckhandling.

• Asymmetrical/ergonomic shapes: Lock your bottom hand for repeatable shots.

Thickness & taper: Thin-walled or aggressively tapered shafts feel whippy and quick; thicker walls add robustness and stability.

Grip options:

• Tacky grip adds control (great when sweating).

• Matte/clear (no grip) allows quicker hand transitions and slide.

• Textured ribs give tactile reference points for consistency.

Balance point: A balanced stick feels lighter than the scale says. Some heavier but well-balanced sticks feel effortless; test for front-heaviness (blade-heavy) vs neutral.

 

Materials & Weight

• Carbon fiber composites dominate: strong, light, and tunable. Premium sticks use higher-modulus fibers and advanced layups to reduce weight and tune kick.

• Fiberglass blends can improve toughness and reduce cost, with a small weight penalty.

• Wood is budget-friendly, great for backyard/pond, and offers classic feel but is heavier and less consistent.

Weight reality: Ultra-light is nice, but fit and feel (length/flex/curve/balance) influence your play more than chasing the very lightest number.

Position, Playstyle & Level of Play

Forwards

• Snipers/quick release: Low-kick, toe/open curve, slightly shorter length, mid/softer flex.

• Playmakers: Hybrid kick, mid/open curve for easy saucers, balanced length, moderate flex.

• Forecheckers/netfront: Durable blade, slightly shorter for leverage, hybrid/mid kick, not-too-open face to keep tips/finishes on net.

Defense

• Point shooters: Mid-kick, slightly longer length for reach, neutral/closed face to keep slappers down.

• Shut-down/pokecheckers: Longer stick, robust blade/shaft, hybrid or mid kick.

Specialty styles

• Toe-drag artists: Toe/open curve, low kick, rounded shaft corners.

• Heavy slapshotters: Mid kick, stiffer shaft, flatter/closed pattern.

Levels of play

• Beginner/learners: Prioritize proper length and softer flex. A mid or hybrid kick with a mid/open curve is forgiving. Don’t overspend.

• Intermediate/rec league: Consider mid-tier composite with the right curve and kick. Balance durability and performance.

• Elite/competitive: Dial in specific kick for your shot profile, a curve that matches your release, and the lightest/best-balanced profile you can afford.

 

Ice vs. Roller/Street

• Ice hockey sticks can be used for roller, but asphalt/concrete will chew up composite blades fast.

• Roller/street: Look for ABS-reinforced blades or a dedicated street blade to improve durability. Expect different puck/ball feel and shot timing.

 

Left or Right Handed?

Dominant hand on top often gives best control (so many right-handed folks actually shoot left), but go with what feels natural when you stickhandle and shoot. Try both sides if you’re new.

How to Test a Stick (In-Store or At the Rink)

1. Stance & lie: In your skating posture, does the whole blade sit flush?

2. Balance: Hold at the balance point; does the blade feel heavy?

3. Puck feel: Soft passes (or a ball) on the blade—do receptions feel cushioned or pingy?

4. Load & release: Mimic wristers/snaps. Low kick should pop quickly; mid kick should feel solid as you lean.

5. Hand movement: Slide hands for dekes—grip too tacky or just right? Ribs helpful?

6. Length check: Decide where you’ll cut before picking flex.

 

Tape, Knobs, and Accessories

• Blade tape jobs: Toe-to-heel for more friction on releases; heel-to-toe for easier puck rollout. Thickness tweaks feel and dampening.

• Wax: Repels water/snow and adds consistent grip.

• Butt-end/knob: Big knobs help top-hand control and stop slips; tapered grips help bottom-hand placement.

• End plugs: Add length without changing the blade’s lie; remember added length makes flex feel softer.

 

Durability, Warranty & Care

• Durability trade-off: Light = fast, but often less durable. If you break sticks often, consider a slightly heavier, reinforced model or two-piece setup.

• Typical warranties: Many brands offer limited ~30-day breakage warranties from purchase on composites (policy varies). Always check terms and keep receipts.

• Care tips:

  • Don’t leave sticks in a hot car—heat weakens resins.

  • Dry blade/tape after skates to reduce water weight and rot.

  • Retape before the cloth is soaked/frayed; replace chipped tape around the toe.

  • Inspect for soft spots or cracks around the heel/hosel before they become failures.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Choosing by weight/price first instead of length/flex/curve.

• Buying too stiff—you’ll struggle to load and your shot will float.

• Cutting a stick drastically after choosing flex—pick flex with your final length in mind.

• Ignoring lie—blade should sit flush in your skating stance.

• Copying a pro’s curve without considering your own mechanics and league level.

 

Quick Selector: Recommendations by Player Type

Player Type	Length	Flex	Kick	Curve	Notes
Beginner (adult)	Chin–nose	~0.5 × body wt	Hybrid	Mid/open, moderate depth	Easy to learn, forgiving
Sniper winger	Slightly short	Slightly softer	Low	Toe/open	Quick release, top-shelf
Playmaker C	Chin	Moderate	Hybrid	Mid/open	Saucer control, versatility
Puck-moving D	Chin–nose or +1"	Moderate–stiff	Hybrid/Mid	Mid/closed	Passes & point shots
Stay-at-home D	Nose or +1–2"	Stiff	Mid	Mid/closed or heel/mid	Reach, stability
Youth (under 12)	Chin	Soft	Hybrid	Mid, shallow–moderate	Emphasize loading & control

“+1–2” denotes adding inches relative to baseline chin–nose length (with skates on).

 

Example Setups (Personas)

1) 5’10” (178 cm), 170 lb winger who shoots wristers in stride

• Length: Slightly below chin

• Flex: ~75–85 (depends on strength)

• Kick: Low

• Curve: Toe/open (aggressive)

• Notes: Emphasize quick catch-and-release and in-tight shots.

2) 6’1” (185 cm), 195 lb defenseman, heavy point shots

• Length: Chin–nose or a touch longer

• Flex: ~95–102

• Kick: Mid

• Curve: Mid/closed or heel/mid

• Notes: Stability under load and flatter trajectories.

3) 5’6” (168 cm) playmaker center

• Length: Chin

• Flex: ~70–80

• Kick: Hybrid

• Curve: Mid/open

• Notes: Balance saucers, quick passes, and versatile shooting.

 

FAQs

Q: Will a lighter stick make me shoot harder?
A: Not automatically. Lighter can speed your hands, but shot power comes from technique, flex match, and timing.

Q: How does cutting the stick affect performance?
A: Shorter = stiffer feel and “higher” effective lie; longer = softer feel and more reach but can sap leverage if too long.

Q: Can I use an ice stick for street hockey?
A: You can, but composite blades wear fast on concrete. Use ABS or a dedicated street blade for durability.

Q: I break blades but not shafts—what should I buy?
A: Try a two-piece setup so you can replace blades only; consider tougher blade cores or street/ABS variants for off-ice.

Q: What’s the best curve?
A: The one that matches your mechanics. Start mid/open if unsure, then iterate toward toe/open (more lift/quick release) or heel/closed (flatter/controlled) based on your misses.

Q: What lie number should I pick?
A: Start around 5–6. If your toe lifts in your stance, go higher; if the heel lifts, go lower.

Q: Does price equal performance?
A: Returns diminish at the very top. Mid-tier sticks with proper fit often outperform top-tier sticks that are the wrong length/flex/curve.

Final Buying Checklist

• Right handedness picked (try both if new)

• Length set for your stance/position

• Flex chosen with cut length in mind

• Kick point matched to shot style

• Curve & face tuned to how you pass/shoot

• Lie verified in skating posture

• Blade feel (soft vs stiff) matches preference

• Shaft shape/finish comfortable for hands

• Balance feels neutral (not blade-heavy)

• Durability acceptable for how/where you play

• Warranty/return policy understood; receipt saved

Bottom Line

Pick the right fit first—length, flex, kick, curve, lie—then weigh weight, balance, and durability. When a stick matches your body and your game, everything gets easier: cleaner receptions, quicker shots, and more pucks in the back of the net.